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modelmaker87

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About modelmaker87

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  • Birthday November 19

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    http://tonysissons.zenfolio.com
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    Gastonia, NC

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  1. FDNY Squad 41 1/25 scale

    Nice stuff, James. Cheers, Tony
  2. Photobucket woes

    P/bucket is still functioning, but it's a PITA to upload or sort an image to d/load to PM now without paying for it. The majority of users, both here and other forums, decided to give P/bucket the digit and left. I'm one of them. Chers, Tony
  3. Photobucket woes

    Same for many of us, Kevin. My modeling time is more vauable than sorting out past photos. Now, if I was getting paid...!! Cheers, Tony
  4. My 1st OMI

    Hi Scotty, It's great to learn you want to push yourself further into prototype modeling and build a model better than anything you've ever done before, we're all with you on that, no question. Reading the thread so far, you've received some good and sensible info. There's lots of permutations, lot's of different opinions. Brian B's comment really states your position. "You have to know which prototype you want to build." So here's how I would go about a project similar to where you're at right now. Which is, what and how should I approach this potential project now that I've spent some money buying this OMI model. Like Brian I first decide exactly what I want to build. Stealing a line from your initial post, it reads: I acquired this OMI EMD SD45 chassis w/ an SD-40 shell. I am starting here at ground zero, A) Do I build on want I have or Do I get an SD45 shell and start there. You can start there but your first job is to establish what engine and the approximate time frame (year/era) you wish to build it. From there you need to collect as many images as you possibly can so that the parts you see in the photos can be added or removed from the model according to the photos. The photos will, or should, reveal what areas of your original model need modifying without addng details. Say, remove a panel, a louvre, that sort of thing. These detail changes to the original determine the sequence you will build the model. You will also need to list what you prefer to purchase from the after market detail boys, if available or good enough, and what details you are prepared to build yourself. My preference is to scratch build most of the detail parts I will need, or in many cases do my own etches and resin castings. I can attest that some detail parts I scratch take an incredible amount of time. Often some 20 or 30 hours or more. Once you have got to that point and completed your paperwork, help from us will be much more focused on 'best way' to achieve your set goal. So let me start you off in maybe a different direction for this project. Becuase you said: "I do not run or have a layout, I model and weather for the enjoyment and personal relaxation." Begs the question, why mess with a mechanism then? If it were me and I just wanted to make a super detailed model, not for sale but for my onw enjoyment and RPM display purposes, then here's three idea options. Option A) Remove the existing drive components and install 4 massive speakers, set it up on a yard diorama and have it ticking over in idle in the yard. So prototype and perfect for display at an RPM. Nothing worse than a fabulously made model spoilt sitting on a white paper covered table. So far from prototype it's not even a discussion. Oh, you can sell the drive components on e-bay, they will sell in a heartbeat. Option B, build your own chassis, easy if there is no drive to consider. That permits 100% dead nuts accuracy of bolster spacing, accurate dimensional spacing for all the other items there under, fuel tank and all the rest of the gubbins. Option C). beacuse there is a fair amount of room in an OMI install a battery powered drive a la Kevin did. Great practice and you WILL be able to run it on the white table cloths at an RPM meet. An opportunity to go full non prototype..!! Kidding but see where I'm going with this, establish what your end game will be and work back from there. If you can't obtain the prototype info you need to build it, search for another model type that will permit you to achieve your goal. Food for thought, Scotty. Cheers, Tony
  5. Nose length?

    Kevin, Check out Cannon's etched EMD tread plate, you can get it in sensible rectangles. From these cut out the shape you want. Then spend hours and hours filing and test fitting until the profile is a perfect match to the area you want to cover. Cheers, Tony
  6. Nose length?

    Hiya Kevin, 81" = 0.9257" (23.51mm) 88" = 1.010" (25.65mm) Check it out and see what ya got. Cheers, Tony
  7. Photobucket woes

    If anyone wants to use this, no problem by me. Happy to let you have a copy of the original. Cheers, Tony
  8. Photobucket woes

    imgur test #1 Cheers, Tony
  9. SP SD40T-2

    I agree with you Elizabeth, weathering a somewhat 'clean' engine is far more difficult to recreate than degrees of heavier weathering. The cab roof slope, image 4, nice touch with those three patches of white/grey. Your thumbs up emoji goes <here> as many as you fancy. Plug 'em in. Cheers, Tony
  10. Photobucket woes

    Like some of you guys I also have found Photobucket to be incredibly slow and cumbersome after their upgrade. many times trying to use it, the down or uplaod time is so long you get the feeling that the website is down for maintenance and simply backoff. I think I may try imgur since it does allow a full image to appear on here without the need to hop over via a URl to another website, which I like. Cheers, Tony
  11. Photobucket woes

    Hi Guys, Yeah, never was the best of sites in the first place. I think most of us used it because it was the photosite initially suggested in the 'how to' section of our forum way back when PM was first cranked up. There's far superior sites available these days than back then, although most for a service you'd expect requires dollars. I tried to upload an image after reading this and it took so long, I'd say over 2 minutes and the photo still never arrived on my screen so I could copy and paste iton here. So decision was made. I'll use my own pay site for any images that I want to post to supplement texts in future threads of mine. http://tonysissons.zenfolio.com/p369294128 As Kevin notes, it will be a shame if the photos that have been posted over the years disappear. Cheers, Tony
  12. NJT Comet II

    Guys, this past weekend at the St Louis meet I saw these passenger car models by SlowFreight in the flesh, or in the plastic, whatever. They are superb and there's a lot going on with these, all underneath mind. SlowFreight has done a very nice job indeed with these bad boys. Pipework, a lot of scratchbuilt parts, air cylinder modifications and a whole slew of additional detail work. Thumbs up Slowfreight, damn good job and nice workmanship to boot. I'm not a passenger car kinda modeler, but I was impressed with these. First time the pair of us have met, it was fun because there I was, weathering away on the Weatering Shop demo tables and I saw over my goggles this guy crouching down to get a good look at one of my display models on the table. I started to say something and there was this wonderful smile shining out at me. Oh, this person said, I know all about this model, I thought, really, HTF..!! Then his hand came across the table and simutaneously said, Tony, I'm SlowFreight. There I sat delightfully surprised. RPM meets can be more than just the models, meeting the person across the table and not via text on a computer screen from time to time, makes our hobby even more wothwhile. Good to meet you SlowFreight. Cheers, Tony
  13. BNSF ex-Santa Fe Bluebonnet GP60. *Pictures!*

    Phil, you can trust Cannon fans. They are delicate, go slow when you do all the required work. Ensure that the fan housing/s fit the hole you've made etc. Paint the inside and outside fan parts their specific colors then set thefan parts aside. Fit the fan parts after you've painted the shell, that way you won't get the outer top coat contaminating the weathered silver fan blades that I know you're gonna do. Cheers, Tony
  14. In 4 weeks book will be done

    Nick, thank you so much for your thoughts and suggestions. Without them Mike and I can't improve on what we have done to date. But I can assure you, as stated in posts past on here, my next project must always be better than the project that came before it. Book two will be just that. The SW1500 being my first book, the whole process from start to finish was new to me. I learned an immense amount from Mike, great mentor btw. A huge part of any book is the editing. What will be edited out and what will remain for the reader? This decision comes down to the style of the publishing company which determines the look and feel of the book. Left to me you'd have one book the width, height and the weight of the Doomsday book. Costing probably 200 bucks to produce with a selling price over that. I know Mike had to make decisions that he knew wouldn't neccessarily appeal to all. Content dictates book size, book size dictates price to the buyer. This is where an electronic version has the advantage over print. So easy to add new material as a v2.0 update. Mike and I are meeting up in a couple of weeks in Collinsville and we know we have much to chat about. Cheers, Tony
  15. Good Starter Airbrush + Compressor?

    Slowfrieght is dead on the money there, Phillip. All first class recommendations. Etches and other bits: Contact me at sissons.tony@gmail.com F.Y.I. I design evrything you see for my own modeling needs. I offer what remains of what I have had etched in three different ways: (a) My website. ( I show the bits at the RPM meets I attend throughout the year. © Post on here and other forums in the event that any modeler would like to obtain some of these detail parts. Some of thee etches are not simply out of the packet and glue to the model. They require some skill and an understanding of sequence layering. I don't state price but I am consistent with all modelers, the price you pay is identical price as any other modeler will pay. Postage is at cost, +/- change. None of your $9.95 rates for a single Details Associates detail part that costs $1.50. I try my darndest NOT to rip fellow modelers. I do Paypal only. Cheers, Tony
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